Yesterday, We walked 34 km in the rain and fog. Through the mountains, one tunnel, around, down and up. About 20 of it was, unfortunately, along the highway which didn’t make for such a great walk. The last part however, even though completely uphill, in the mud and in the fog, was quite enjoyable. You should see the bridges through the sky they’ve built that pass so high over our heads and through mountains. That in itself is something to see. Modern transportation meets old villages.
We reached O Cebreiro, in the province of Galicia towards the end of the day, drenched.
But that didn’t discourage us from looking around. This little village, sitting on top of the world, is home to thatch roofed houses. It’s fascinating. You feel like you’re walking through the movie set for the hobbit.
And we didn’t stop there! We then continued another 4km to Linars, along the most peaceful path. … but again, in the rain. This time however we were greeted by a dog who walked us out of town. He turned around a few times to make sure we were there, then waited at the top of the hill. As we turned the corner I looked back and only then did he turn around and go home.
On to Linars. All I can say about this town is that it has 6 buildings. A convenient store with an owner who makes you feel like you’re disturbing her, a few barns from 1930 and some chickens and a dog in heat. The dog in heat is important to mention, because since she’s in heat all the other dogs come to the window and howl all… night… long. Did I mention the dog in heat lives upstairs from where we were sleeping! Arriving here, staying here, after a long day of walking through the rain wasn’t a cup a tea and I may or may not have had a meltdown.
Today, to the contrary, the scenery and the weather were absolutely perfect. These views are spectacular. We meandered down little streets and path ways. Through villages and woodland. I can almost picture the people who have walked here before me. So serene. So enjoyable. Days like today are what the Camino is all about.
Some of these towns are so deserted I can imagine being a child playing in them would be so much fun… below is a tree in one of these towns, Ramil. Where if you look closely you’ll see a man picking the chestnuts off his roof. Wherever there are chestnut trees you can almost be certain that there will be a local picking the fallen nuts around the tree.
Finally we arrive in Triacastela. We’re sitting outside in the sun enjoying a nice local wine and a bite to eat. With the sun shining bright and the coolness in the air I feel like we’re sitting atop a mountain at the end of a warm ski day. And as I write this I have cats climbing all over me trying to get at the last of my paella. I am a cat lover so would dearly love to feed them but that’s a no, no.
Buenos Noches
Élise and Janie walk the Camino 